Tag: Security

What exactly is the difference between a campervan and a motorhome? Seems obvious, or is it? We take a detailed look to try and answer the question once and for all. 

The terms campervan and motorhome seem to be often used interchangeably. They are after all both leisure vehicles that provide transport and accommodation in one.

We’ve been to motorhome dealers and hire firms that refer to all of their vehicles as “motorhomes”, but go on to talk about the features of their amazing “campers” or “campervans”.

Let’s get down to it and have a red-hot go at nailing down the issue of how to tell the difference between a campervan and a motorhome.

Definitions of campervan and motorhome

Let’s start with some definitions.

Before we examine their differences in more detail, we’ll set out a formal description of the terms “campervan” and “motorhome” as they are generally used in the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and various other countries.

What is a Campervan?

A campervan is a van that has been fitted out to be a camping vehicle. Campervans are built using a panel van body as a base, not only the chassis. They typically contain one or more fold-out or pop-up beds, gear storage areas, and often have basic kitchen facilities like a gas stove, sink, and fridge.

There is usually no separation between the driving cab and the living area, and most campervans do not have a built-in shower or toilet.

What is a Motorhome?

A motorhome is designed to be a fully self-contained travelling and living vehicle. They are usually manufactured using a truck or bus chassis as a base with a custom-made body attached (coach-built). Some motorhomes keep the cab intact, and others do not. 

Motorhomes have kitchen and bathroom facilities, and some have fixed beds. A motorhome is usually longer than a campervan and is more likely to contain home comforts such as airconditioning and television.

Motorhome and Campervan differences

Now we’ve defined them, let’s compare the features that are typical of each type of leisure vehicle. 

Feature	Campervan	Motorhome
Base vehicle	Van or MPV car	Van, truck, or bus
Body type	Panel van or car body	Custom-made body
Length	Up to 6 metres	5 to 12 metres
Separate cab	No	Sometimes
Side door	Usually sliding	Usually hinged
Berths	2-4	2-8
Pop-top roof	Yes, but not always	No
Folding bed	Usually	Sometimes
Fixed bed	Sometimes	Often
Storage cupboards	Yes	Yes
Cooking facilities	Usually	Yes
Gas tank	Usually	Yes
Fridge	Often	Yes
Sink	Often	Yes
Water tank	Often	Yes
Waste-water tank	Often	Yes
Storage cupboards	Yes	Yes
Shower/toilet	Not usually	Yes
Electric hookup	Often	Yes
Airconditioning	No	Often
TV/DVD	Sometimes	Often

Using this table will help you decide the campervan versus motorhome question for most vehicles. But, there is some overlap so it’s a question of looking at the whole picture.

Are we there yet?

No, we’re not quite there yet.

Like most rules, there are exceptions. Our definition isn’t perfect by any means, so let’s take a look at what some of those exceptions are.

Low-profile motorhomes

In recent years a very popular type of motorhome in the UK and Europe is what is known as a “low-profile coach-built motorhome”.

These have a slimline roof and sleek proportions which resemble a long-wheelbase campervan.

In our humble opinion, these vehicles have a foot in both camps. They have a custom-built body but the proportions of a larger campervan.

Long-wheelbase panel van conversions

Similarly, some campers are built using a long-wheelbase panel van body, but with motorhome comforts such as a shower/toilet room and fixed bed.

They could be a campervan but also a motorhome. Maybe both?

Other examples

A few more examples of hard-to-categorise campervans/motorhomes:

• A short wheelbase van with a washroom. Does that make it a motorhome?

• A bus kitted out with beds, kitchen, bathroom, storage, and so on, uses the original bus body. Is it therefore considered a motorhome?

• A long wheelbase, high roof panel van with the kitchen installed laterally, blocking access to the driving cab. Campervan or motorhome?

• What about an old ambulance carefully converted to a very comfortable camping vehicle?

• A four-wheel drive with a kitchen in the back and a pop-up roof bed on top. Is that a campervan, motorhome, or just a car?

• A fifth-wheeler motorhome that detaches from the cab. Is it even a motorhome?

Exactly how each of these vehicles fits the category of motorhome or campervan is debatable. 

What are Class A, B, and C motorhomes?

The description and differences we’ve set out above relate to the types of motorhomes and campervans commonly found in the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and Europe (albeit by local names).

The motorhome classes A, B, and C are derived from the North American RV market. 

RV stands for Recreational Vehicle, and is a generic term that includes motorhomes of all types and sizes. It is most associated with the very large bus-size vehicles which often have slide-out sections to widen the interior space when camped.

In the US and Canada the motorhome world is quite different, with very large and often luxurious motorhomes up to 45 feet long a much more common sight.

The best known of these is the Winnebago brand, although they also make a range of smaller vans too and started out making campervans.

The US motorhome classification system

• Class A: The largest and longest RVs, with the most comforts and highest price.
• Class B: What we would refer to as a campervan in the UK or a camper in the US/Canada.
• Class B+: A larger version of Class B, often with a shower/toilet room.
• Class C: Motorhomes larger than classes B/B+ with a coach-built body and a semi-integrated cab.

These class descriptions are sometimes referred to by UK dealers, but inconsistently.

The exception to this is Class A or A-Class motorhomes, which is the term used for the large and long end of the market.

Does the campervan/motorhome difference matter?

No, not really.

In this article, we are just talking about terminology. The terms are frequently used interchangeably, or a campervans are simply seen as small motorhomes.

Some motorhome owners would be horrified to have their vehicle called a campervan, and similarly, some campervanners see themselves as driving something very distinctive from (and way cooler than) motorhomes.

Exactly what your holiday-home-on-wheels is referred to doesn’t make any practical difference, however, there are definite advantages and disadvantages of owning a campervan over a motorhome and vice versa. We discuss this in detail in our article Pros and Cons of Campervans and Motorhomes: Which Should You Buy?

Where the difference between motorhomes and campervans may be thought to matter are for DVLA road tax, driving licence, and insurance purposes.

(But they don’t really).

DVLA – road tax

Road tax, or its proper name Vehicle Excise Duty (VED), is charged to the vehicle owner.

The terms motorhome and campervan are not used by the DVLA. Instead, these vehicles are called “motor caravans”.

To be a motor caravan a vehicle must meet certain criteria which include sleeping accommodation, sleeping, cooking, storage, and seating facilities. As such, some more basic campervans don’t qualify. 

The VED rates are set according to weight and engine size, and when the vehicle was first registered. It doesn’t matter whether the vehicle is considered to be a campervan or a motorhome.

Driving licences

Again, the motorhome/campervan distinction is not directly related to driving licences.

The type of driving license you need to drive a motorhome or campervan depends on the vehicle’s Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM).

You can drive a campervan or motorhome up to 3,500kg on a standard Category B licence. Larger motorhomes will require a Category C1 (3.5-7.5 tonnes) or Category C (over 7.5 tonnes) licence. 

Insurance

Insurance on campervans and motorhomes is generally cheaper than standard car and commercial van insurance. If you convert a van into a campervan you need to register as a motor caravan to qualify for motorhome insurance.

Ferry and train transport

Fares are generally cheaper for personal use vehicles such as campervans and motorhomes than for commercial vehicles. As with insurance, it is important to have a change in status registered with the DVLA.

Security isn’t usually the first thing you think about when looking to buy your first campervan or motorhome. Unfortunately, protecting your campervan from thieves and opportunists is a reality that should not be ignored by any campervan or motorhome owner.

My VW campervan is my pride and joy. I love the feeling of slipping behind the wheel, ready to hit the open road for another adventure. Even if the adventure is just grocery shopping. I would be devastated if it was stolen or broken into.

Fortunately, there are many things you can do to reduce the chances of being targeted by thieves and make it harder for them if they try.

To help protect your prized home on wheels, we’ve set out a detailed guide on practical steps you can take and anti-theft devices for campervans.

Don’t panic!

Statistically speaking, it is unlikely that anything will happen to you or your campervan on your next journey.

The mere fact that you are reading this article shows that your mind is in the right place. This in itself will help reduce the risks further.

As the saying goes, prevention is the best cure. Taking sensible precautions and keeping your wits about you will go a long way towards protecting your van, its contents, and yourselves.

This guide has lots of ideas for campervan security for you to consider. We hope that you find it useful in helping you to make good choices that suit your situation and make you feel well prepared.

Campervan security at home

Having your campervan stolen or broken into on a trip away may be why you are reading this article. Campervan security, however, definitely begins at home.

According to the latest Home Office statistics on vehicle theft, over 100,000 vehicles were stolen in England and Wales during the year to March 2020. Of these, 73% occurred when at home.

Protecting your campervan or motorhome from theft when not being used for touring is essential. The steps to protect your campervan at home are the same as those that police forces around the country recommend for protecting any vehicle.

Remove temptations and easy targets

Don’t make it easy for thieves! There are very basic (and cost-free) things you can do to make sure you don’t unwittingly lend them a helping hand.

Keys

Never leave your keys in your campervan without you in it, even for a moment. This includes de-icing in your drive, buying fuel, or popping into a shop. Your insurer will likely not pay out if your van is stolen with keys in it.

Keep your car keys out of sight in your house and not near unlocked doors or open windows. Even during daylight hours, they may be a temptation for opportunistic thieves. 

Keyless fobs

If you have keyless entry, store your key fobs in a signal-blocking pouch (Faraday pouch) or metal box. This stops thieves using signal amplifiers to unlock your van. Standard key fobs which you have to press a button to unlock/lock are not at risk with these devices.

Doors and windows

It sounds obvious, but close and lock windows and roof lights, and lock the doors. Nearly half of all thefts from vehicles involved an unlocked car door. Get in the habit of always trying the door after locking your van.

Valuables

Don’t keep any valuables in your campervan. Store any other gear away out of sight in drawers, cupboards, and storage areas. This includes tempting-looking backpacks or bags, even if they are empty.

Blinds and curtains

Close blinds and curtains in your van. Potential thieves may hesitate if they think someone is sleeping inside.

Swivelling seats

If you have a swivelling driver’s seat, turn it to face the rear. Use a padlock to make it difficult to turn back around to the driving position.

Environmental deterrents for parking/storage at home

Physical barriers should be used if you have them and seriously considered if you don’t. After all, you’ve probably invested upwards of £50,000 on your campervan or motorhome.

Off-street parking

Park on your driveway or in your garage wherever possible. If you have to park on the street, choose a well-lit spot.

Security lights

Use light as a deterrent – burglars hate being visible. Security lights with a movement sensor can cause a hasty exit. Or install dusk to dawn lighting to keep the area lit overnight.

Security cameras

Visible home security cameras pointing to the parked vehicle are a deterrent as well as potential evidence for the police if theft is attempted.

Driveway design

Physical barriers such as locked gates and driveway security posts may stop your van from being removed from your property.

Gravel driveways are noisy in the dead of night and may put off a thief from approaching.

Anti-theft devices for campervans

These security solutions apply for all types of vehicles, not just campervans and motorhomes. Car security is a competitive area with a lot of choices. Have a good look around at what is available and get quotes for the best fully-installed prices.

Before spending any serious money on security, though, make sure to check with your insurer. They may have requirements for accredited security products. There are two main accreditation schemes for vehicle security systems and devices in the UK.

• Thatcham Research – the motor insurance industry research centre, which tests and approves vehicle alarms, immobilisers, trackers, and mechanical security products.
• Sold Secure – owned by the Master Locksmiths Association. Sold Secure grades security products as Bronze, Silver, Gold, or Diamond level.

Campervan alarms and immobilisers – essential kit

Your base starting point for a campervan security system should be to have a modern, industry-standard, Thatcham-accredited alarm system and immobiliser.

Alarm systems are designed to attract attention and make the would-be thief run off when triggered. Vehicle alarms typically use a piercing siren, car horn, and flashing vehicle lights. Alarms are usually set off by a locked door being tampered with, noise from glass breaking, or excessive vehicle movement.

Since 1988 all new cars and vans must have Engine immobilisers fitted. A vehicle immobiliser stops the vehicle from being hot-wired. I.e. bypassing the ignition switch to start the engine. The immobiliser is activated when the key is removed. It is deactivated when a correctly coded key is inserted into the ignition switch.

Does my campervan have an immobiliser or alarm?

Factory-built campervans like the VW California and Mercedes-Benz Marco Polo come with built-in approved alarms and immobilisers. You should check your manual for the precise specifications.

Van conversions will often come with an alarm and immobiliser factory fitted in the base van. Not all vans will have an alarm, however, and pre-1998 vans may not have an immobiliser.

A van converter may install a new alarm or modify the original van alarm system to suit its new use as a camping vehicle.

If you are having a van converted, make sure that alarms are on your checklist of features.

If your van does not have an alarm or immobiliser it is worth considering having these retrofitted. As well as improving your campervan’s security and your peace of mind, this may also reduce your insurance premiums.

Security Tip: Check your vehicle manual for how to temporarily disable the motion sensors. This is so you can lock and alarm your van at night when you are sleeping in it, and when transporting it on a ferry or train.

Ghost immobilisers – hidden PIN code

These fitted immobilisers set up a “pin code” sequence using vehicle control buttons such as on the steering wheel. The pin sequence must be input before the vehicle will start.

A ghost immobiliser is not visible (unsurprisingly). It makes it nearly impossible for a thief to drive your camper or motorhome, even with the original car key. 

Trackers – get your stolen campervan back

Vehicle tracking systems are designed to locate and help recover stolen vehicles. They use one or both GPS/GSM (satellite location using the mobile phone network) and VHF (Very High-Frequency transmissions) technologies.

Insurance companies will often require trackers on motorhomes and campervans over a certain value. In any case, they are a good investment for a prized and expensive vehicle. Especially one which has more sentimental value than the average family car.

Trackers come with different levels of capability. These range from simply giving the location of the vehicle to being able to cut the ignition remotely when the car goes below a certain speed setting for example at traffic lights. 

Only 30% of stolen vehicles are reunited with their owners. This rises to over 90% for vehicles that are fitted with trackers. The majority of those are returned within 24 hours of being stolen.

Dashcams

Having a dashcam fitted to your campervan can provide evidence to police and insurance companies in the event of an accident. It therefore offers protection if it wasn’t your fault. Not so good if you were the guilty driver.

These devices are becoming very commonplace, especially with the rise of deliberate minor accident claims – so-called “Crash for Cash” incidents.

As an anti-theft security device, however, a standard dashcam gives only limited protection. Arguably the visible presence of a dashcam may put a thief off having a go. It won’t of course actually prevent theft or burglary.

When left in parking mode they can record activity close to your van. If a thief attempts to break into your campervan a dashcam may record them approaching. This depends on the field of view, the quality of the picture, and whether your dashcam has night vision (if it is dark).

Dual aspect dashcams

Some dashcams have dual aspect cameras facing the road in front as well as the vehicle interior.

The inward-facing camera may capture a break-in. Provided it is left in parking mode and has a decent view of the habitation area.

If you are in your van you may not want the camera recording your every snore. Night-time entry is rare but not unknown, so keeping the cameras rolling is a trade-off between security and your privacy.

Mechanical security devices to prevent campervan theft

Electronic sophistication is well and good but sometimes a bright-yellow-painted inconveniently-placed chunk of locked metal is enough to deter thieves. Here’s a quick rundown of portable vehicle immobilising devices designed to protect your campervan.

Safety Tip: store your removable security devices securely when driving to stop them from becoming a dangerous flying object in the event of an accident or sudden braking.

Steering wheel locks

Steering wheel locks are a very effective visual deterrent. Often sporting bright yellow or red livery, they are designed to be noticed at a glance and will put off many would-be thieves.

Steering wheel locks for campervans and motorhomes come in various designs. These include the traditional bar with hooks, a steering wheel to brake pedal lock, and hard shell enclosed lock. Without a key, they can’t be removed without a great deal of noise and effort.

Security Tip: store your steering wheel lock key separately from your car key. If your car keys are stolen the thief will still have to get past the steering lock.

Clutch locks and pedal clamps

These devices lock together or encase the brake and clutch, or brake and accelerator pedals. This simply stops the camper or motorhome from being driven.

Like steering wheel locks, they are designed to stop a vehicle from being driven even with the car key present. Some recent model vans require the brake pedal to be depressed to start the engine – a pedal lock will prevent this.

There are a number of pedal clamp models on the market, each with a particular approach to the problem.

Wheel clamps

A commonly used option to immobilise a campervan or motorhome is a wheel clamp.

Motorhome wheel clamps, also known as wheel boots or parking boots, are just like the ones your friendly local parking warden uses. Except that you have the key.

Useful for securing campervans, motorhomes, and caravans at home or on-site. They are also great for locking your trailer which remains on your campsite pitch while you are out for the day.

Gearstick locks

The last but not least of our suite of lockable physical immobilisers are gearstick to handbrake locks. 

Gear locks connect and lock the handbrake and gear lever together, rendering it impossible to drive without removal. Like our other options, gear locks are very difficult to remove without the key.

A benefit of gear locks over other physical deterrents is that they are smaller and can be folded for storage in your campervan glovebox. This is, of course, subject to glovebox dimensions and how many bags of sweets are already crammed in there.

Stopping break-ins and theft of gear

Okay, we’ve tackled how to immobilise your campervan to stop it from being stolen. Next, let’s consider protecting your van and camping accessories and your belongings.

Wheel security

With the advent of expensive alloy rims wheel theft is making a comeback. This is particularly with larger alloys that have thinner tyres which are more easily scratched on the kerbing.

Anti-theft locking wheel nuts are the practical solution and really a necessity for any van owner. They work by replacing one wheel nut on each wheel with a special wheel nut that requires a “key” in the form of a wheel nut socket with the matching key pattern.

Many recent-model vans come with manufacturer-supplied locking wheel nuts. Even these come with some level of risk as there may only be a small number of different lock nut keys for each manufacturer, allowing the organised wheel thief to carry a set.

Removal tools

Mechanics use locking wheel nut removal tools to remove wheels when the keys are lost. These tools do take time to remove each wheel.

High security locking wheel nuts are available on the market to overcome these weaknesses. These are designed with a hard outer casing which spins and can’t be undone with standard removal tools.

A determined thief will eventually succeed given time and the right specialist tools, but it won’t be worth the risk for most.

Don’t forget the spare wheel

Spare wheels on vans are particularly vulnerable to theft, and spare wheel theft is on the rise.

Campervan spares are usually stored underneath the rear of the van, with some attached to the rear door or roof.

If wheel nuts are used to hold the spare in place, then locking wheel nuts can be used to secure the spare.

Alternatively, there are specialist spare wheel locks such as the spare saver for underslung spare wheels on late model VW campervans.

Campervan and motorhome safes

Safes are an excellent feature to protect valuables and documents from theft.

Most campervan and motorhome burglaries are over in under a minute, as the thieves grab whatever they can find quickly. A locked safe box in a campervan will be just too time consuming to bother with for most burglars.

Some factory fitted or high-end van conversions come with the option of a built-in safe, and there are numerous retro-fitted safes on the market.

The best campervan safes are bolted to the campervan chassis. Some models even come with a monetary guarantee that they can’t be broken into.

Door security

Most campervans, whether factory-built or conversions, will have a locking procedure to lock the doors from inside when camping.

Simply using the key fob will also set the alarm, resulting in a rude awakening for you and the whole campsite when you roll over in your sleep. Check your van manual, or ask your converter, to see how it is done.

Your campervan will have factory-fitted door locks, obviously, but it is possible to enhance campervan security with additional door locks.

There are a wide range of door lock enhancements for motorhomes and caravans. Some of which may also be used for campervans, however, if you’re looking for additional locks for your campervan it is worth looking at locks designed for commercial vans.

There are three main types of commercial van locks.

• Deadlocks – just like deadlocks on houses, you use a key to lock these from outside as an extra lock. They drive a bolt into the structure of the van, and can only be opened with a key.
• Slam locks operate automatically when the door is closed. They do pose a risk of locking your keys in your campervan, so are perhaps better left to delivery vans.
• Van door locks are highly visible locks bolted on the rear or side doors. These are commonly seen on commercial vans. They are a visual deterrent but may not be to everyone’s taste.

Cab door security bar

Fiamma produces the Duo-Safe Pro telescopic door bar. This device prevents motorhome or campervan cab doors from being opened by connecting both doors together when you are sleeping in the vehicle.

The Duo-Safe is a simple and clever idea. It can be removed quickly and doesn’t need you to drill holes in your precious van.

Campervan window security

Campervan factory-fitted windows in the driver and passenger doors, windscreen, and rear window will be made of toughened safety glass and are difficult and noisy to break. Side windows may be more vulnerable.

Swing-out style habitation windows and roof lights often found on motorhomes and caravans are potentially vulnerable to forcing open outwards, and their plastic construction can be a further weakness.

Sliding glass windows commonly found on campervans are more secure than swing-out windows, but can still potentially be forced open.

A range of window security devices for campervans can be retro-fitted. These include:

Window catch locks

Window catches are a potential weak point, depending on their design. There are various window catch locks that can be retrofitted to strengthen the security of motorhome windows, such as the UK-made Lock M Out.

Window restrictors

Child window restrictors limit how far windows can be opened. Restrictors are a solution designed for homes but may work in some campervans. They consist of a short steel cable connecting the window frame and van body and are opened with a key.

Security film

A brazen thief may try to smash a window to enter your van. Installing window security film on the outside of your van windows can make this much harder, even if they use a hammer. It is important that the film is fitted externally so that you can still break a window from inside to escape in the event of an accident or fire.

Window alarms

Individual window alarms sound, loudly, when the window is hit, broken, or opened. They are relatively cheap to buy and easy to install. Although they won’t stop a window from being breached, they are visible from outside and act as a deterrent, and if the alarm goes off then hopefully the intruder will flee.

Securing the environment in and around your campervan

Preventing a crime from happening in the first place is the best security outcome of all. Criminals are not keen on being seen or heard. If you can disrupt this then they may just leave you alone.

Dogs

If you have a dog, you have a hairy security guard for your campsite. Their keen hearing will pick up the noise of anyone outside well before you may notice, and set off their barking alarm.

Dog warning stickers, and a dog drinking bowl and chain outside your van, will hopefully give even the stupidest criminals a reason to leave before trying. 

Sensor lights

A waterproof sensor light that switches on when someone approaches or exits from your van will light up the area outside. As well as putting off a burglar, these can be handy for going outside at night in a dark campsite.

Exterior motion sensor chimes

Like sensor lights, these devices detect any movement within their perimeter range. They can be set to make a doorbell chime sound, or let rip with a loud siren.

Interior motion sensor alarms

When you are away from your van, a motion-sensor alarm inside your van can be tripped if somehow a thief evades all your other layers of security.

Interior security cameras

Again for use when you are not in your van, motion-triggered or always-on cameras will give you some comfort and evidence should a break-in occur. There are a range of 12V powered cameras available, including some which work on mobile phone networks. These can alert you and provide live footage if something happens.

Campervan security when travelling

Keeping your van and its contents secure when away on a trip is arguably more important than when at home. When away from home your van is your home, and losses, or the theft of the campervan itself, is more than just inconvenient.

Imagine coming back to site after a day of cycling or walking to find your van missing? Then having to report the incident to local police, possibly in another language, then figure out what to do next given most of your possessions have disappeared. It doesn’t bear thinking about.

Chances are high that you won’t be a target of crime on your van travels, but by planning in advance you can reduce your risk further or at least minimise the damage if something does happen.

Pre-trip preparation

When you are planning a trip away in your campervan make sure that you think about security along with what beach gear and how many pairs of pants you are packing.

• Have your insurance details handy, including insurance company contact phone numbers for any countries you are visiting to report any incidents.
• Take printed copies of important documents (including passports) as well as photos and/or notes stored on your phone.
• Think hard about taking anything valuable. If you really don’t need something on your trip, leave it at home.
• Mark any expensive items that you do decide to take. Use a UV pen to write your postcode so that you can be reunited with your lost gear.
• Set up the locator apps on your smartphones and tablets (“Find My” on Apple iPhones and iPads, and “Find My Device” on Android devices).

Tips on campervan security when away from home

Here are our best campervan anti-theft ideas for when you are out touring and adventuring in your van.

On the road 

• Keep your doors locked when driving.
• Choose parking spaces in busy, well-lit areas.
• Ensure that the alarm’s movement sensor is switched back on from camping/transport mode when you leave the van parked up.
• Don’t ignore your gut feeling. If you are uneasy about a parking spot, it may be best to look for an alternative.
• Be extra vigilant at Aires and similar roadside overnight parking areas, as they have been known to be targets for crime, particularly near cities.
• Lock up and take your keys with you when paying for fuel.

Staying at campsites

• Always store tempting items out of view.
• Close curtains and blinds when away from the van so that thieves don’t know whether there is anyone inside.
• Lock the van when you are away from it – even just using the site amenities.
• Lock the van when you are inside for the night. Make sure you set the alarm to camping mode and don’t just lock up with the key fob.
• Be aware of the security features of your campsite. Does it have an exit barrier? Is it well-lit? Is there a warden on duty overnight?
• Look at your surroundings when choosing a pitch – perhaps reconsider the secluded spot next to the wood as it may provide cover and easy escape for thieves.
• Don’t leave valuable kit outside overnight. Lock up outdoors gear such as kayaks, paddleboards, and bikes to your van, a tree, or post. Dry clothes, towels, and wetsuits inside your annexe overnight.

Personal safety – gas attacks

Our guide to campervan security wouldn’t be complete without mentioning a subject which comes up from time to time in news reports or on social media – “gas attacks” on motorhomes or campervans, usually occurring on the continent.

The victims have apparently been incapacitated by some kind of gas which has been piped into their van while sleeping and then robbed while unconscious.

Our research came up with no evidence of any proven cases of a gas being used in a motorhome robbery, and plenty of commentary including opinions from professional associations of anaesthetists, that this is nothing more than an urban myth.

The assumption that some sort of gas must have been used seems to come from the disbelief that the victims slept so soundly that they didn’t hear the thieves enter their van and help themselves to cameras, wallets, credit cards, phones, laptops, etc.

Carbon monoxide gas

One kind of gas which is a genuine threat to campervan owners is carbon monoxide (CO). 

This colourless, odourless gas forms when carbon-type fuels, such as camping gas and solid fuel barbeques, are burned with low oxygen levels. Carbon monoxide is highly poisonous and can be deadly in a confined space like a campervan.

A CO alarm is an essential piece of kit for any camper. They are relatively cheap and the installed battery usually has a life of 5+ years. If you don’t have one, get one!

Conclusion: choose carefully, think holistically 

Unfortunately, protecting your campervan from thieves and opportunists is a reality that should not be ignored by any campervan or motorhome owner.

By identifying your needs and using a layered approach, doing careful research when buying security products, and using common-sense precautions, you can significantly reduce your risks of campervan theft.

Motorhome wheel clamps are becoming an essential security accessory. They are a very visible anti-theft device and should cause most would-be thieves to walk away and look for an easier target.

Wheel clamps, also known as wheel locks, wheel boots, or parking boots, are similar to the clamps used by council traffic wardens and parking inspectors to immobilise delinquent cars. Motorhome wheel clamps can also be used on campervans, cars, caravans, and trailers, depending on their wheel sizes.

In this guide, we’ll show you how a wheel clamp works, the benefits and features of various styles of motorhome wheel clamps and wheel locks, and how to fit a wheel clamp on your motorhome or campervan. 

How do wheel clamps work?

Wheel clamps work by immobilising the vehicle with a physical impediment that stops the wheel from rotating. The vehicle can’t be driven, pushed, or towed away with one wheel immobilised, even when the thief has the ignition key. 

Wheel clamps are excellent security devices. They are very effective physical immobilisers and are a highly visible deterrent.

Many motorhome thieves will simply move on when they see a clamp in place.

Wheel clamps provide you with peace of mind at a relatively low cost. Once you know how it’s done, they are very quick to fit.

A wheel clamp won’t stop a vehicle from being crane-lifted onto a trailer by more determined (and organised) thieves. It is possible to remove wheel clamps but only with specialist power tools and a lot of noise and time.

Security tip: keep your wheel clamp keys separate from your motorhome ignition key. This way, if a thief steals your keys they still won’t be able to unlock the wheel clamp.

Insurance requirements for motorhomes

Checking with your insurance company is an essential part of your approach to motorhome security.

Some motorhome insurance policies will require an approved wheel clamp to be fitted whenever your motorhome is unattended. Caravan insurance policies typically require a wheel clamp and/or a hitch lock to be in place.

Insurance Tip: It is essential that you have the security devices fitted that are required by your insurer. Without them, at best you could pay a higher excess. At worst you may not be paid out for the loss at all.

What are insurance-approved wheel clamps?

Insurance companies will usually refer to “approved” security devices. These have been tested and certified by independent organisations.

The main UK-based independent agencies for automotive security products are Sold Secure and Thatcham. Some devices are also accredited by European bodies such as TUV and SCM.

What is the best type of wheel clamp for a motorhome?

There are a lot of wheel clamping devices on the market. Therefore it is helpful to understand some of the differences. This way you can select something suitable for your motorhome or campervan.

Some manufacturers make wheel clamps specifically for motorhomes. Always check the product description carefully to check that the model you are considering is suitable for your vehicle. Crucially this includes wheel size requirements (see below).

There are various wheel clamp styles and types, including: 

Triangle wheel clamps

Triangular wheel clamps are similar to the familiar style favoured by police and traffic wardens.

They have chains or metal arms which wrap firmly around the tyre, often have metal chocks at the front and back of the wheel, and a locked triangular covering plate over the wheel nuts.

Pros: Triangular or pyramid wheel clamps have the benefit of high visibility and are immediately recognisable as a serious impediment to theft.

Cons: They tend to be quite heavy and larger to carry than other styles, and can be fiddly to put on.

Claw-style wheel clamps

These wheel clamps have two parallel metal arms that fit around the inside and outside of the wheel at a single point, with a metal wheel chock or steel post to stop the wheel from turning.

Pros: They are more straightforward to fit on the vehicle and are not as heavy as triangular clamps.

Cons: Claw-style wheel clamps are still a lumpy, heavy item to store and carry, particularly in a campervan with limited storage space. Some cheaper models are not security-approved and easy to defeat.

Limpet-style wheel locks

Limpet-style wheel clamps are designed primarily for caravans and trailers. Some motorhomes and campervans that have a suitable wheel design may also be able to use them.

Rather than going around the tyre, this style of clamp is bolted to one of the wheel bolts with a special wheel nut fitting.

A long steel pole is inserted through one of the gaps in the wheel rim pattern. This goes right through the wheel to a position underneath the chassis.

Pros: They are very secure as the important components sit within the wheel structure, are very easy to fit once set up, and are more compact for carrying when travelling.

Cons: As they are aimed at caravans, limpet-style wheel locks will only suit certain other vehicles with visible wheel nuts (ie, no hubcaps or bolt covers), and a wheel design that allows the steel pole to be inserted through the wheel.

Other styles of wheel clamp

There are numerous variations of these three styles. This includes wheel clamps designed for twin-axle motorhomes and caravans. They all have the same effect – make the vehicle impossible to move on its wheels.

What size wheel clamp do I need?

Motorhome wheels are generally larger than the average car wheel, so some wheel clamp models will not fit motorhome wheels.

Look for the manufacturer’s information to see if a particular wheel clamp model is suitable for your vehicle. 

Wheel clamp size requirements are usually expressed as a range of tyre widths and wheel diameters. Always check that your motorhome or campervan wheel dimensions are within the stated size ranges.

How to measure wheel size

To measure your van’s wheel size, firstly look at the details printed on the sidewall of one of the tyres. The dimensions you need are shown in three parts:

aaa/bb R cc

These numbers are, rather confusingly, each in a different unit of measurement.

• aaa = tyre width in millimetres
• bb = tyre profile (sidewall height) as a percentage of tyre width
• cc = wheel rim diameter in inches (the R simply means radial type)

Let’s take an example of a VW California campervan with tyre markings showing 235/55 R 17. This means a tyre width of 235mm, tyre profile of 55%, and wheel rim diameter of 17 inches. The R simply means radial tyres.

Depending on the particular wheel clamp, it may specify both wheel width and total wheel diameter, or just total wheel diameter.

What is the total wheel diameter?

The “total wheel diameter” is the diameter of the entire wheel including tyre, measured in millimetres.

A measuring tape from top to bottom (or side to side) will get you a close result, but the more accurate method is using the printed tyre dimensions. The formula is:

Total Wheel Diameter (TWD) calculation

TWD = (tyre width (mm) x profile (%) x 2) + (wheel rim diameter (inches) x 25.4)

TWD = (aaa x bb x 2) + (cc x 25.4)

In our VW California example: TWD = (235 x 55% x 2) + (17 x 25.4) = 690.3 mm. Our VW campervan therefore needs a wheel clamp that fits a tyre width of 235mm and a total wheel diameter of 690mm.

How to put on a wheel clamp

The method for fitting a wheel clamp on to your motorhome depends entirely on the design of the device.

For triangular wheel clamps, this involves placing the clamp arms or chains around the tyre at two or three points, tightening the whole assembly so it fits firmly around the tyre, and locking the cover plate in place with a key. Inserting the arm pieces and getting them around the tyre can be awkward, particularly at the top near the wheel arch. 

Claw-style clamps are a bit more straightforward as they go behind and in front of the tyre at just one point, before tightening and locking the clamp. Some claw-style models are locked to a wheel nut, and some just fit inside the wheel rim. Like triangular clamps, the arms need to fit firmly around the tyre so they can’t be moved easily.

Limpet-style clamps must be set up in advance, as they require replacing a wheel nut with a special receiving bolt. However, they are easy to fit once the initial setup is done. Slide the steel pole on to the main assembly, insert it through the wheel, line up the limpet with the bolt receiver, and turn the key.

Note for caravans: Some wheel locks are designed to be inserted into a pre-installed receiving point on caravans and trailers next to the brake drum. These are very secure devices but can be awkward when fitting to line up with the receiving point.

Conclusion: get a wheel clamp

A wheel clamp for your motorhome or campervan is a relatively inexpensive item to help secure your expensive leisure vehicle.

Deciding what to buy depends on how you use and store your van, insurance requirements, other security in place, your carrying capacity, and personal preference.

For most motorhome owners, a wheel clamp is peace of mind worth having.